Ureka: Finding the line between desire and contentment. Then riding it.


After the success of his first book ‘In Search of Greener Grass’, Graham Field (.co.uk) hits the road again with his bargain-basement KLR650, recording his experiences in his inimitable and revealingly honest diary style. The Caucasus region is often overlooked by travellers, but Graham may inadvertently be about to change all that. A single pivotal moment can transform any journey, on this occasion a significant U turn became a real eureka moment. The result ensures a fantastic exploration of Eastern Europe and beyond, the discovery of a hidden gem in Georgia and meanderings that leave us all much richer. Who tries to get deep into Iraq just to see if the news reports are accurate, ends up joining a street demonstration against someone else’s government or sticks their arm between the jaws of a wild mountain wolf-dog? Ultimately, Ureka is an almost accidental realisation that we cannot control our mood on the road, but merely embracing this can be the most enlightening travel experience of all. U-turn if I want to, is that what I should do? The words rang a distant bell. I can’t decide if turning suggests rebellious failure or submissive success, not that it matters. If all my experience had thought me one thing, I’d be buggered if I knew what it was. I had all the usual ingredients, my trusty KLR, a little bit of money, plenty of time and lots of new countries to ride through. I transited through Bulgaria resisting its long stay temptations, took an excursion into humbling Iraq, then wound on up through the wild surprises of Eastern Turkey on the way to Georgia. In Azerbaijan I turned the plan and the map round. It wasn’t just the journey that took a different direction, everything changed…

If there’s one thing I’ve learnt on the road it’s that I never stop learning. Some things are not meant to be and others are; the trick is finding the line between desire and contentment, then riding it.